Dallas ds1287

A close inspection of the motherboard revealed no scratches or signs of damage. I tested the battery from the terminals on the battery plug. They read 3v. I tested the voltage on the Dallas chip itself where the leads were attached. Zero volts. On closer inspection, I discovered that the pins in the socket had been pushed back when the plug was inserted and they were not mated properly with it.

After making sure they were I did another voltage test. This time, the 3v from the battery was making it through to the chip. It was!!! I rebooted and viola! No error message, and the A: drive was now fully operational! I'm pleased with this mod. It took a lot of patience and care but it works like a charm.

What's more, when the battery runs down in a few more years time, a replacement will be mean simply wiring up a new cell arrangement.

Many thanks to Nige the Hippy and QuantumII for giving me the encouragement to tackle the problem, and Nige for providing a design to work to. What the??!!. I checked and found the leads and foil under the heatshrink weren't making contact with the battery properly. Ships Same Day. Call The Radwell Difference. Buy Surplus As Low As. Repair Yours. Buy New. Product Conditions Described. Radwell is an authorized distributor for these Manufacturers; Radwell sources these products direct from the Manufacturer; The products are Factory New in Box products; Radwell's QA department recommends this product due to its superior quality and product offering; Radwell provides engineering services for customers looking to upgrade or replace unsatisfactory parts with these direct lines; Ships same day if in stock and ordered by p.

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Radwell is not an authorized surplus dealer or affiliate for the Manufacturer of RQAUS1 products unless explicitly stated otherwise; Radwell sources these products through independent channels including Original Equipment Manufacturers OEM , Internet exchanges, direct or independent distributors, miscellaneous resellers, auctions, and direct from user tool cribs; The products are genuine, used , and packed in Radwell packaging , and they may be older date codes or series than that available direct from the factory or authorized dealers; The products may vary as to country of origin, accessories and other items included with the product, the language used on the packaging, parts and instructions, and the contents of any printed material; The products may show signs of use and may be marked with evidence of the prior owner's use e.

You will want it later if your work bench isn't near a computer. Mine isn't. If you follow his procedure, you'll probably do fine. Unless of course you're like me and have more bad luck than you should when things come down to the wire.

The suggested implement to open these modules is a Dremel tool. My Dremel tool--while a nice piece of equipment--spins at a minimum of 5, RPM and was all too happy to open not only the potting compound, but also the IC and in some cases, even the battery. I went through five or six DS modules before deciding that this method wasn't going to work for me. You will remember that I said something about a judicious application of violence on the Model 25 batteries page In any case, I turned to hand tools I started with a sharp knife to make the initial cuts and followed them up with by running the jaws of a needle nose pliers into the cuts.

The serrations in the jaws slowly dug deeper into the potting resin and it wasn't too long before I saw the first battery contact. For the second module I reworked, I did all of the work using a moderately sized side cutters. This was quicker, although it made more of a mess and the module didn't solder as nicely as the first.

Whatever you do, handle the pins on the module carefully. They have a tendency to bend when you aren't looking.